Pattern making

The course takes in to account the technical making of 10 different bag constructions: t-gusset, bucket, Boston, briefcase gusset, box/saddle bag, strip, framed bag, triple bellows, t-short and darts, bag with pleats, Bugatti bag.
The complete set of the patterns in cardboard is prepared for each of these constructions, including the external and internal parts, reinforcements, linings and patterns for cutting.
The sequence of the patterns worked has been studied to let students face an increasing complexity, while adding different elements and details of constructions.

During the first week the teacher introduces students to the world of bags: names of the different styles of bags are explained together with a detailed explanation of how each construction is developed in production and which materials and components are used.
It is important for the students to understand the differences between the three main types of constructions: those that start from the bottom, the gusset and from the face.
In addition, they have to learn the various types of edge finishes: raw edge, folded, stitch & turn. We teach all these details with practical examples and making prototypes of each.
In the beginning of the course students also start to practice in the use of the typical tools used by the pattern makers: cutter and cardboard.

Prototyping

About 140 hours of the course are dedicated to prototyping. Among the 10 sets of patterns developed during the course, students – organized in teams – make four complete prototypes. The aim of the hours dedicated to prototyping is to train participants both in the manual operations and in the use of the machines. The sample room in the bag classroom is equipped with a splitting machine, a skiving machine, four arm sewing machines, a high column sewing machine, a vacuum bench for glue and a roughing machine. Being a sample room and not a factory for production, part of the operations such as edge painting is made with manual tools.

During the hours dedicated to prototyping we have a second teacher that joins the class to teach the use of the sewing machines.

For those who want to make more prototypes and spend more time practicing, we recommend the 3-week bag making course. During this course, students make three additional prototypes of bags, on top of the ones made during the 10-week class hence they complement each other. 10-week class.

Knowledge of materials

During the course the teachers organize lessons on different topics about materials and components:

• leathers: how leathers are produced (students will also visit a tannery), which animals are used, which finishes are available on the market and how to use the leather in production, how to evaluate the quality of the leather and how to cut the different patterns to have a better consumption while maintaining the look and the quality of the bag.

• reinforcements: fundamental components of the bags. During the course, students get a better understanding of the different types of reinforcements commonly used in bag making and they learn how to properly use them – cutting them in the right direction – in order to achieve the desired effect of stiffness or softness.

• metal components: we are convinced of the importance of accessories as distinctive elements of bags.

During the course students learn the differences of using different materials to make the accessories, the galvanic process and the finishing available together with the range of costs. In October, students visit Lineapelle, the most important international fair where suppliers of materials for shoes and bags exhibit their newest collections. At Lineapelle our students can search for materials, understand what is available on the market and build relationships with the most renown international suppliers.

Final assesment

During the last two weeks each student is challenged to make the patterns and a sample of a bag – starting from a design that they make – without the support of the teachers. The quality of the bag made is part of the final evaluation of the course together with:

• a written test with both multiple-answer and open questions

• a practical exercise that is the making of the patterns of a design provided by the teacher

• an oral examination

During the course few intermediate tests are made to assess the progress of each student. The result of these tests is part of the final evaluation too. The Arsutoria diploma is issued to those who successfully complete this final exam.